Improving Lawn Care and Gardening in Coastal North Carolina

Is your groundwater and surface water protected from your lawn care and gardening activities?

Lawns and gardens add beauty, provide habitat for many plants and animals, and can help protect the environment by filtering out pollutants and reducing soil runoff. Homeowners often care for lawns, gardens, shrubs, and trees by applying plant nutrients and sometimes pesticides to help them remain healthy, attractive, and pest free. Unfortunately, improper storage and application of these products may result in products moving through the soil into the groundwater or leaching into surface waters such as estuaries, bays, creeks, or sounds. This can cause damage or kill aquatic plants and animals as well as cause pollution of groundwater and drinking water.

It is important to know how to maintain these areas while still protecting your water supply and the surrounding coastal waters. Children and pets are also vulnerable to pesticides improperly stored, applied, or used. Proper application of fertilizers and pesticides, safe storage practices, and correct watering are all part of the overall protection plan to reduce runoff.

Surface waters need to be protected from lawn and garden activities that cause soil erosion. Land-disturbing activities, uncovered soil surfaces, and the absence of erosion control measures may cause soil to move into streams, rivers, and estuaries. Excess sediment in surface waters can kill important food sources for fish and cause the quality of the water to decline. It is important that you keep your soil on your property. You can do this by minimizing the amount of bare soil that is exposed to rain.

Leaving or establishing an undisturbed natural area of vegetation along lakes, creeks, marshes, and rivers, can provide numerous benefits for overall watershed and stream health, while also protecting water quality. Landscaping down to the water with inappropriate plant species can increase erosion and the potential for flood damage while decreasing available habitat for wildlife.

It is nearly impossible to get pollutants out of water once they get there. Expensive treatments or new wells would be required to get safe drinking water again and to clean up polluted waters. Clearly, it is much more effective to keep pollutants out of water than to try to clean it up afterward.

North Carolina Coast*A*Syst Publications

• Protecting Well Water in Coastal Communities, #1

• Improving Storage and Handling of Household
  Hazardous Waste for Coastal Communities, #2

• Improving Septic System Maintenance in Coastal
  Communities, #3

• Improving Lawn Care and Gardening in Coastal North Carolina, #4

• Stormwater Management for Coastal Homeowners, #5

• Dock and Pier Construction in Coastal Communities, #6

Fertilizers

1. How do you store and handle your fertilizers?

Store fertilizers in a locked, dry cabinet away from your well. Keep fertilizers and pesticides on separate shelves. Load your fertilizer spreader on the driveway or other hard surface so you can easily sweep up any spills. Any fertilizer that spills should be swept up and applied to your lawn or garden at the right time and in the right amount. If you are using liquid fertilizer on your grass, add fertilizer to the spray tank while it is on the lawn. This way, if you spill the fertilizer, it will be used by the plants and not run off into surface waters. Do not store fertilizers with combustibles, such as gasoline or kerosene, because of explosion hazards.

a. No fertilizers are stored.

b. Fertilizers are stored away from the well and water sources and all spills are promptly cleaned up.

c. Fertilizers are stored near the well and water sources and spills are not cleaned up.

d. Fertilizers are stored in the pump house of the well; OR you do not know.

2. How do you fertilize your lawn or your garden?

The chemical in fertilizers that can most easily pollute groundwater is a form of nitrogen called nitrate. Nitrate moves readily in soil and it can move through the soil into the groundwater. Drinking water that contains 10 milligrams of nitrate per liter of water exceeds the drinking water standards and should not be used, especially for infant formula.

The best way to prevent the movement of nitrate into the groundwater is to apply no more nitrogen than the grass, garden plants, shrubs, or trees can use during the time that the plants are growing. Sweep up any fertilizer that ends up on your driveway or sidewalks, or in your curbs. Reapply this fertilizer to your planted areas. This will allow the fertilizer to grow plants instead of washing off into nearby streams and sounds.

Use caution when applying fertilizer by the water's edge. Be careful not to apply fertilizer directly to any body of water.

For maintaining established lawns, the North Carolina Cooperative Extension recommends the fertilizer rates and schedule in the following table.
 

Your garden should need no more than 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet during the entire growing season. If split into at least two or three applications, the fertilizer will steadily feed the plants without seeping into groundwater or surrounding waters.

a. You test your soil and apply the recommended amount of fertilizer at the proper times.

b. You use fertilizer at the rate recommended by the North Carolina Extension Service and you apply the fertilizer at the correct time.

c. You apply fertilizer at the recommended times but you have no idea how much you are putting out.

d. You apply more fertilizer than recommended and apply it many times each year; OR you do not know.

How can this publication help?

The North Carolina Coast*A*Syst program has prepared this publication to help you focus on potential problems with your drinking water or other water resources that may be caused by improper lawn or garden care. Read this publication before you begin answering the questions. Then walk around your lawn, garden, and area where you store your lawn care chemicals.

Each of the following sections deals with different topics. Next to each topic is a question for you to answer. Your answers will help you to see where you have potential problems.

• If you answer a question either a or b, you have few problems with your lawn care and gardening activities.
• If you answer a question either c or d, there may be a problem with the way you care for your lawn and garden and you will want to consider making changes in your lawn care and gardening activities in order to protect your drinking water.

If you would like further help in assessing the condition of your lawn care or gardening activities, please contact your nearest Cooperative Extension Center and talk with your Extension agent.

Pesticides

3. How do you store your pesticides?

The fewer pesticides you buy, the fewer you will have to store. Homeowners frequently use pesticides to kill or control weeds (herbicides), insects (insecticides), and fungi (fungicides) that attack their lawn or garden plants. Purchase only the amount and kind of pesticide that you need. Always store pesticides in sound, properly labeled, original containers. Leaky containers or broken tops can lead to pesticides leaking. Sound containers are your first defense against a spill or leak.

Like fertilizers, pesticides should be stored in a locked, dry cabinet away from your well or water sources such as creeks, rivers, sounds, or even the ocean. Keep fertilizers and pesticides on separate shelves. Store dry products above liquids to prevent wetting from spills. Dry formulated pesticide spills should be swept up and applied to your lawn or garden at the appropriate rates. Liquid pesticide spills should be soaked up using absorbent materials (soil, sawdust, cat litter). Place all material in a sealed container and recycle at a household hazardous waste (HHW) collection center. Check with your local government or county extension office to see when your community will have a HHW collection day. Clean and empty pesticide containers can be recycled through the Pesticide Container Recycling program at the North Carolina Department of Agriculture (http://www.ncagr.com/fooddrug/pesticid/recycle.htm).

Pesticide storage areas must be kept free from combustible materials (such as petroleum products) or operations that present a fire hazard (such as welding). Burning pesticides or even empty containers can create extremely toxic fumes.

a. Pesticides are stored in original containers, clearly marked. There are no holes, tears, or weak seams in the containers.

b. Pesticides are stored in original containers that are old and have labels that are hard to read or partially missing.

c. Pesticides are stored in containers that are old and patched. Metal containers show signs of rusting.

d. Pesticides are stored in containers that have holes or tears that allow pesticides to leak. There are no labels on the containers; OR you do not know.

4. Where do you handle your pesticides?

Just as it is important to keep your storage area away from your well and water source, it is also important to keep your mixing site as far away from water sources as possible. Spilled pesticides can move through the soil into the groundwater and pollute your drinking water supply and coastal waters. The farther your mixing and loading site is located from your well and water source, the greater the protection to your drinking water supply and surface water. If possible, mix your pesticides on an impermeable surface, such as concrete, which will contain a pesticide spill.

It is also important to mix only the amount of pesticide that you will use. If you do not apply the correct amount for the correct square footage, you may add too much, which can do more damage, or too little, which would require you to reapply. First, measure how many square feet are in the area to be treated, such as your lawn or garden. Then read the label on the pesticide container and follow the instructions. By properly measuring and calculating, you should have little or no spray mix left in your spray tank when done. DO NOT apply pesticides if rain is expected within 24 hours.

a. The mixing area is located as far as possible from your well and water sources and on an impermeable surface that will contain spills. You only mix the proper amount of pesticides.

b. The mixing area is located as far as possible from your well and water sources and on an impermeable surface that will contain spills. You mix more pesticide than you can use.

c. The mixing area is located near your well and water sources but on an impermeable surface that will contain spills.

d. The mixing area is located near your well and water sources. Spills soak into the ground; OR you do not know.

5. How do you use pesticides?

Typical lawn and garden pesticides consist of weed killers or herbicides, insecticides, and fungicides. Some of the pesticides can move through the soil and into the groundwater and coastal waters.

Guidelines for the safe use of pesticides are provided below:

• Just live with a low level of weed, insect, and plant disease infestation.
• Use pesticides only when absolutely necessary.
• Identify pests correctly. Use the proper pesticides.
• Read and follow the directions printed on the container labels.
• Calibrate your spreader and sprayer to keep from applying too much pesticide.
• Do not spray or apply pesticides near your well or any body of water.
• Do not spray or apply pesticides near your walkway and driveway.

a. You rarely use pesticides, but when you do, you use the correct pesticide at the proper amount and you do not apply the pesticide near the well and surface waters.

b. You occasionally use pesticides, but when you do, you use the correct pesticide at the proper amount and you do not apply the pesticide near the well and surface waters.

c. You frequently use pesticides. You apply more than you need, but you never apply pesticides near your well and surface waters.

d. You frequently use pesticides. You apply more than you need. Pesticide applications are made close to the well and surface waters; OR you do not know.

6. How do you dispose of your pesticides?

Improper disposal of pesticide containers can lead to water contamination because the chemical residue can leak into the ground or can be carried away in stormwater. If you are using liquid pesticides, rinse the bottle three times. Pour the rinsings into your sprayer to reuse, not down the drain. The North Carolina Department of Agriculture (NCDA) has a pesticide container recycling program that offers the best solution to disposing the container. Some HHW collection centers will take clean, empty pesticide containers. You can also discard empty and rinsed pesticide containers in the trash.

If you have properly measured the pesticide, you should have little or no spray left in your tank. The little that is left can be safely sprayed over the area you treated.

For more information on recycling lawn and garden pesticides, contact the Division of Solid Waste, North Carolina Department of Environment, Health and Natural Resources (919-733-4996) or the North Carolina Department of Agriculture (919-715-9023).

a. You recycle all pesticides at a household hazardous waste disposal center and your empty container is recycled at a pesticide container recycling day with NCDA. You never have any pesticide mix left in your sprayer.

b. You recycle all pesticides at a household hazardous waste disposal center. You occasionally have a small amount of pesticide mix left in your sprayer.

c. You bury or dump unused pesticides on your property.

d. You dump unused pesticides near your well or water source; OR you do not know.

Water

a. You never water your lawn or garden.

b. You only water when your plants need moisture and you always use the correct amount of water.

c. You only water when your plants need moisture but you don't measure how much you apply.

d. You water on a set schedule regardless of whether your grass or garden needs it; OR you do not know.

8. What type of plants do you grow?

One of the best ways to protect your groundwater is to use plants that are drought-tolerant and that are native to your area. Drought-tolerant or low-water-use plants can continue to survive once they are established, even during times of little rainfall. Native plants require less pesticides and fertilizers. Because you do not have to water these plants, there is less chance that nitrate and pesticides will be carried with the water through the soil and into the groundwater. Some low-water-use plants for North Carolina are Crape Myrtle, Southern Red Cedar, Yaupon and American Hollies, Yellow Jasmine, Seashore Mallow, and Black-Eyed Susans. For a more complete list of drought-tolerant plants see Landscaping to Protect Water Quality: Wise Water Use in Landscaping (AG-508-1, WQWM-123).

If low-water-use plants are not practical, then try to use medium-water- use plants, such as azaleas. Water these plants only when they begin to show drought stress. Some plants will wilt when they are drought- stressed, while other plants will show marginal leaf burn.

Sediment in our streams, lakes, estuaries, marshes, sounds, and oceans can start as erosion from your property. Lawn and gardening activities such as establishing lawns, tilling gardens, or leaving bare areas can result in erosion. Some coastal lawns have turf or open areas that go all the way to the water's edge. To prevent soil from moving off your property and into water resources, keep your soil covered with plants or mulch. Consider landscaping your lawn to minimize the impact of lawn and gardening activities.

a. You have only drought-tolerant plants.

b. You have mostly drought-tolerant plants and some medium-drought-tolerant plants.

c. You have mostly medium-drought-tolerant plants and some high-water-need plants.

d. You have mostly high-water-need plants and a few medium-drought-tolerant plants; OR you do not know.

Soil

Sediment in our streams, lakes, estuaries, marshes, sounds, and oceans can start as erosion from your property. Lawn and gardening activities such as establishing lawns, tilling gardens, or leaving bare areas can result in erosion. Some coastal lawns have turf or open areas that go all the way to the water’s edge. To prevent soil from moving off your property and into water resources, keep your soil covered with plants or mulch. Consider landscaping your lawn to minimize the impact of lawn and gardening activities.

9. How do you plant your lawn?

The best way to prevent bare areas that are easily erodible is to design your landscape to minimize steep slopes and areas that do not drain well. When you are establishing a lawn, minimize the exposure of bare soil by using straw or other erosion control measures to cover any ground that will be bare for more than 30 days before planting. Straw is generally used with grasses established from seed such as centipede, bahia, bermuda, or carpet grass. Reapply the straw or the erosion control measure after planting. Be sure to plant at the best time for the type of grass you are using. Warm-season grasses (bermuda, zoysia, centipede, bahia, and St. Augustine) should be planted in the late spring or early summer. Cool-season grasses (fescue, bluegrass, and ryegrass) should be planted in the fall. Water lightly to prevent water and soil from running off the surface.

a. You have an established lawn, with few to no bare spots and you never till your lawn.

b. You occasionally reestablish your lawn or you are planting a new lawn and you always plant your lawn at the right time using straw mulch or with erosion control materials.

c. You have an established lawn with many bare spots.

d. When you plant a new lawn or reestablish your old lawn, you plant at the wrong time and you do not use straw mulch; OR you do not know.

10. What do you do with bare spots or tilled garden areas?

Areas under large trees are easily laid bare when there are foot paths, children playing, or animals confined under the trees. This is because most plants that can withstand heavy traffic will not grow in the heavy shade under trees. To avoid having exposed soil under large trees, you can either mulch or grow shade-tolerant ground covers or shrubs. Then try to steer the heavy traffic away from the area by creating paths or locating play equipment elsewhere. If you must use the space under a tree, use a mulch or a porous patio (pavers, flagstones, etc.) to both protect the roots and prevent soil erosion.

The same solution should be used for shrubs; use mulch around your shrubs or flower beds to protect the soil from erosion.

Maintain a "buffer" of mulched perennial landscaping around your garden to keep runoff from moving out of the garden and into the surface waters.

a. You have no bare soil surfaces in your landscaping.

b. You have some bare soil surfaces in your landscaping, but the exposed soil areas are minimal and covered with mulch, or if the exposed surface area is a garden, you use buffers around the garden or mulch the entire garden.

c. Some of your landscaping area is bare and you do not use any kind of mulch to cover the exposed soil, or if the exposed surface area is a garden, you do not use mulch in or buffers around the garden.

d. Much of your landscaping area is bare but you do not use any kind of mulch to cover the exposed soil, or if the exposed surface area is a garden, you do not use mulch in or buffers around the garden; OR you do not know.

11. Do you have windbreaks and dunes along your property?

Lawns and gardens near the ocean often need protection from the prevailing winds, storm force winds, blowing sand, and salt spray. Windbreaks can be natural or manmade, fences or walls that are thick and low. The thickness should be around 60% or in 1 inch gaps. Lower branches of the windbreaks should not be pruned since windbreaks are effective when they reach the ground. For small yards, a hedge with a wide base can serve as a good windbreak. Larger yards should stagger rows of plants to act as a windbreak. Plants should be planted in the sheltered area from the wind or the lee. Native plants to use could include: wax myrtle, bear grass, Spanish bayonet, saw palmetto.

a. There is a natural windbreak of thick rows of native plants and the dune is stabilized with a boardwalk and dune grasses.

b. The area around the house has windbreaks of a couple of native plants and some of the dune is covered with dune grasses but there are some bare spots.

c. There is no boardwalk over the dune for foot traffic and only a few plants to protect the house from the strong winds.

d. Lots of bare spots on the dune so that the sand is constantly shifting and no vegetation around the house; OR you do not know.

REMINDER
If you circle c or d for any question, you may be causing water pollution.

Contacts

Your local Cooperative Extension Center is a valuable source of information on lawn and garden care.

Online at:

• The North Carolina Cooperative Extension:
  http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/ 
• The Division of Solid Waste, North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources:
  http://www.p2pays.org/ 
  919-715-6500 or 800-763-0136
• North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources:
  http://www.ehnr.state.nc.us/ 
  919-733-4984
• North Carolina Department of Agriculture:
  http://www.agr.state.nc.us/ 
  919-733-7125
• For North Carolina Department of Agriculture pesticide container collection dates:
  http://www.agr.state.nc.us/fooddrug/pesticid/pdisschd.htm
  919-715-9023 or 919-733-7366
• For drought-tolerant plants:
  http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/quickref/quickref.html
• For information on lawns:
  http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/ 

Related publications available from the Cooperative Extension:

• Bermudagrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar, AG-431
• Carolina Lawns, AG-69
• Carpetgrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar, AG-541
• Centipedegrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar, AG-381
• Landscaping to Protect Water Quality: How to Plan and Design a Wise-Water-Use Landscape, AG-508-2, WQWM-124
• Landscaping to Protect Water Quality: Wise Water Use in
  Landscaping, AG-508-1, WQWM-123
• Soil Facts: Managing Lawns and Gardens to Protect Water
  Quality, AG-439-21
• St. Augustinegrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar, AG-540
• Water Quality and Home Lawn Care, WQWM-151
• Water Quality and Sprayer and Spreader Calibration, AG-152
• Zoysiagrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar, AG-432

What is the North Carolina Coast*A*Syst Program?

The North Carolina Coast*A*Syst program is a series of publications that can help you in becoming a good coastal environmental steward and protect the health and well-being of your family. This publication leads you through an evaluation of your home and property to determine the pollution and health risks of your development and construction practices. It also provides information on solving potential problems that you may identify. The publications also list the North Carolina state agencies responsible for helping you solve your particular problems.

This Coast*A*Syst program is modeled after the South Carolina Coast*A*Syst program. South Carolina was the first state to develop such a program.

The goal of the North Carolina Coast*A*Syst program is to help protect the health of you and your family and the coastal environment of North Carolina.

North Carolina's modification of Coast*A*Syst was coordinated by Deanna L. Osmond. Jeff Morton, Matt Martin, Charles Peacock, and Charlotte Glen were the technical reviewers at North Carolina State University.

Prepared by

Deanna L. Osmond, Water Quality Extension Specialist

Gloria Putnam, North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources, Division of Water Quality

Lin Xu, North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural
Resources, Division of Water Quality

Grace R. Lawrence, Coast*A*Syst Coordinator

Janet Young, Layout & Design Specialist

10,000 copies of this document were printed at a cost of $2,085 or $0.21 per document with funds provided by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (through the North Carolina Coastal Nonpoint Source Program administered jointly by the NC DENR Division's of Water Quality and Coastal Management).

Published by

NORTH CAROLINA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE

1/03 - 10,000                                                                     AG-565-02